Marianne in Manhattan

Reflections on an election

November 11, 2008 · No Comments

Last night I went to the New York Public Library to see a bunch of really smart people bounce around their ideas on “What Happens Now?” that the big O has vanquished the McDemon. What a sight it was, seeing these intellectual elite as giddy as they can possibly get, making heady claims that this has brought “if not the end of racism, then the end of white supremacy.” Robert Silvers, the ageing editor of the New York Review of Books, made the best call. He shuffled up to the lectern and declared “I can’t recall such a moment of exhaltation, and exultation, since the end of World War II.”

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(Obama cupcakes featured heavily during an election night party)

There’s no denying that something very special has just happened, right? People all the world over, coming together in blissful agreement, unified by an inspiring idea, and off-their-t*ts high on hope. As the sky is falling on Wall Street and this country is in an obscenely dramatic economic crisis, America delivers a brilliantly monumental event. For the most part I don’t think Obamamania got as weird or scary or cult-like as some pundits would have you believe. Okay, I may have cringed just a little at the repetitive “Yes We Can” refrains during Obama’s victory speech, but I’m pretty sure if I had been standing in Grant Park among hundreds of thousands of like-minded people on election night, this level-headed citizen of the world would have been screaming it at the top of her lungs.

The atmosphere in the Democratic heartland that is New York was intoxicating, and this was no doubt an awesome time to be in the city. It was also the perfect opportunity for me to shake off some of the cynicism that has prevented me giving much attention to political matters in the past. Never mind that I, like a convicted felon, couldn’t vote. ob000-2I was glued to the election coverage anyway, listening to commentators, watching the debates, getting up to speed on which states were red and which were blue, and following the maths on the electoral votes. Somehow all the detail became as compelling as the idea itself. Thoroughly seduced by the spectacle, and whipped into a personal frenzy by the undeniable sexiness of it all, a couple of days before the election I hit rock bottom. An Obama T-shirt you can explain, but nothing screams propaganda victim like my buying this Obama doll - “An action figure we can believe in”. Oh, the shame.

Sure, McCain clearly lost his mind somewhere along the campaign trail, and Sarah Palin’s incapacity to string an unscripted sentence together didn’t do her any favours. But, let’s admit, at the end of the day Obama just won this thing on his good looks. Youthful, relaxed, handsome, charismatic, strong and new. He looks, walks, speaks and jokes through all the parts perfectly. With the gestalt of a natural leader, he has people dancing and cheering in the streets. You can’t help but get all caught up in it. It was just like in the movies, when the hero scores the emblematic victory against all odds. Always a thrilling moment.

→ No CommentsCategories: New York Living

Just don’t try to keep up with the city

June 30, 2008 · No Comments

People are always trying to impress you with their insider knowledge about New York - that secret bar in the meatpacking district, that magical garden in an abandoned lot on East 7th Street, that perfectly secluded spot in Central Park, the newest little French patisserie in Chelsea.

But in this city of endless opportunity, there’s always more to see and do, and you soon reach activity levels that are unsustainable. You can’t run off and join every “so exclusive it’s practically a cult” yoga studio in SoHo from fear you’re missing out on all the good stuff. The best tip I’ve been given about living in New York wasn’t about some funky speakeasy on the Lower East Side. It was this: don’t try to keep up with the city, because it can’t be done.

(A view of the most dense collection of skyscrapers in the world from the top of the Rockefeller Center)

I’ve tried to keep up, believe me. After feasting on this city over the last few months, I find I’ve barely scratched the surface. I’ve hosted six sets of houseguests; climbed to the Top of the Rock twice to admire the impossible view below; squirmed through a confronting Harold Pinter play; caught the sweat flying off the dancers from the third row at the best Broadway musical ever; stood beneath the massive sculptures in Chinese artist Cai’s spectacular exhibition at the Guggenheim; lost my bearings exploring Central Park; fallen in love with this Jackson Pollock during my third visit to the Met; dined at countless eateries and slowly savoured cocktails mixed to unprecedented perfection; ventured to the Bronx to drink expensive beer, eat bad hotdogs, and be bored senseless watching the home team lose a game at Yankee Stadium; rekindled my literary side at the New York Public Library, listening eagerly while Colum McCann, Michael Ondaatje, Salman Rushdie and Jeffrey Eugenides delivered fireside chats about their craft; I laughed till it hurt all over at the Gotham Comedy Club; took in a couple of burlesque shows at shady venues around town (burlesque is, like, so hip right now); tapped my toes to some Real McCoy Jazz at the Village Vanguard; bought a random painting of Hillary Clinton (media: acrylic on beer carton) from a chick on the street in SoHo; and I even managed to procure the final pieces of furniture for my apartment.

(This is not my apartment. This is artist Cai Guo Qiang’s installation of exploding cars, part of his “I Want to Believe” exhibition at the Guggenheim)

These experiences have been rich and addictive. You feel privileged to have the chance to laugh along with the audience after Salman Rushdie has made a casual joke. (When asked, predictably, to talk about the whole fatwa business, he rolled his eyes and replied “What do you want me to say? Should you kill people for writing books? My view is no. Even Dan Brown must live”.) I admit that I’ve often left little time to savour the last experience before hurtling towards the next. And even though each day is scheduled to within an inch of its life, I still regret those things I missed - the Metropolitan Opera in Brooklyn, Thievery Corporation and Bebel Gilberto performing on a Thursday evening in Central Park. I regret them as though it were possible to do it all. My friends, it is not. And the act of trying can get a little exhausting.

So, I am jumping out at the next stop and I plan to sit at the platform for a while. I will stop feeling anxious about opportunities I may be missing. I will let some of this pass me by. Because you just can’t keep up with this city. Of course I mustn’t pass up that invitation to see the fourth of July fireworks display from a rooftop party in Brooklyn Heights, and I’ll have to check out that David Byrne sound installation in the maritime building - you know, the one where he’s rigged up an organ to the infrastructure of the building, converting the very walls “into a giant musical instrument”. But then, after that, then I’ll stop for a while. And maybe catch my breath.

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The sixth good thing about the New York bar exam

May 7, 2008 · 8 Comments

→ 8 CommentsCategories: Bar Exam · Law

Five good things about the New York bar exam

April 18, 2008 · 1 Comment

I have finally emerged from the Bar exam vortex to find that spring has well and truly sprung here in the Village. The transition has felt too quick - the last time I marvelled at the charm of the Village it was the weekend before the exam, and there was a luscious snowfall that lasted only one day. I heart New York.

Early morning snow in late February on West 10th Street

It’s been one month and twenty days since the bar and I’m still a little tender, the aftermath was almost more traumatic than the preparation. You must excuse me if occasionally I adopt a melodramatic tone, or tend toward hyperbole.

Like many of my fellow exam takers, I am preparing for the worst. Only 40% of candidates pass the February Bar (the pass rate drops to the low 30s for foreign law school graduates). Of a group of eight Australians who sat it last year, only four passed, and two of those four were sitting it for the second time. As if these odds weren’t bad enough, each day you learn of another genius, some university medallist or Rhodes scholar, who failed.

The experience wasn’t all doom and gloom. The bar had its hidden delights. Who would have thought I’d find five good things to say about the New York Bar Exam?

1. You get to visit Times Square every day.

Two months out from the exam you start your basic crash course in American law, which takes place in a building at the very epicentre of the most deranged intersection in Manhattan - Times Square. Every day you skip out of work at 5:15pm for your 6pm class, head to the Wall St subway station conveniently located under the building, and squeeze onto a packed uptown train. Your destination is West 42nd Street station - one of the city’s busiest commuter hubs - where you arrive precisely in the middle of rush hour to join swarms of people heading every which way to catch their connecting trains. You emerge from the subway to the visual assault of 20-storey high flashing billboards, neon lights, massive TV screens, endless cars, trucks, and people. So many people. Times Square in rush hour is New York turned up to maximum volume. It inspires a frantic state not all that conducive to study. You wonder if it is somehow part of the test. Perhaps they are teaching you that to succeed in New York you must embrace the city’s extremes, not retreat from them. Whatever the reason, Times Square is a sympathetic background to the chaotic ride towards the bar exam.

2. You learn a thing or two.

Like the fact that fear can be a great motivator. Panic sets in once you begin to process the scope of the task. At this point, your desire to avoid the deep shame of failure is overtaken by the great fear that you might have to go through the whole sordid ordeal all over again, and in the summertime <shudder>. It was not our inquiring minds or our thirst for knowledge that spurred us on; it was fear that drove us. Not that we were bad students - but our nightly classes were less than inspirational. They involved watching a videotaped lecture (often recorded 6 months ago) for three to four hours, while we followed along with fill-in-the-blanks style handouts, writing down words when we were told like mindless drones. We did not discuss cases, nor engage in lively debate, nor was there any background or context given to the material. Just rules, lots and lots of rules, and exceptions to the rules. And exceptions to the exceptions.

We are not talking about getting the hang of a few high-level legal concepts either. We are expected to memorise all the painful little details: all the elements for the each of the 6 species of criminal homicide at common law; the 5 different tests to determine an insanity defence; the 7 requirements for valid execution of a will; the 22 exceptions to the hearsay rule; the percentage of the shareholder vote that is required to approve a corporate merger; the 8 situations where police can conduct a search and seizure without first obtaining a warrant. You must memorise all of these things, and hundreds more just like them, all at once, because you may be tested on any or all of it, all at once. As a fellow candidate put it, “it’s an act of professional bastardry of the worst kind”.

(Using American-style study aids like whiteboards and flashcards was new and exciting to me)

3. You may not be as tough as you thought you were, but you survived.

With that much pressure, people are destined to crack. I, like many other independent people, have come to fear the idea of the “the breakdown”. But while I was awash in a sea of adrenaline for the first morning, which can’t have been helpful for my reading comprehension skills, I was better off than the person sitting somewhere behind me who collapsed on day two of the test, just hit the floor, boom. I noticed the paramedics zooming down the aisle on a little indoor vehicle and quickly turned away, calculating I had no time for voyeurism. I’m told another test taker in the same vicinity suddenly stood up and started sobbing at one point. There was also a guy doing push ups, but I digress.

There are all sorts of urban bar exam myths in circulation. This one is my favourite:

In one bar exam administration, one test taker collapsed to the ground clutching his chest. A neighboring test taker, who happened to be a physician, immediately darted to the collapsed test taker, and began administering a heart massage and CPR. The exam administrators went and called 911, which brought out the emergency personnel to take the man to the hospital. It was agreed that the physician test taker had saved the man’s life, and that without his efforts, the man would have surely died before the emergency personnel arrived. Nonetheless, when the physician asked to have extra time to finish his essays, he was refused, and ended up flunking. It took many months, and embarrassing news stories, before the state bar allowed the man to pass. Unbelievably, students are now advised to offer no help to anyone who is taking the exam, even if they happen to be dying.

(From PejmanPundit’s Blog, one of several to provide bar exam advice)

The point of all this is that the bar exam can induce heart attacks and meltdowns, and although I admit to having some pretty big freak outs, I’m still standing. And when I managed finally to get some natural sleep when it was all over, and when that sleep brought with it some pretty vivid anxiety dreams, I thought to myself “if this is the worst thing my damaged nerves can throw at me, then I’ll be alright.”

4. It’s refreshing to have a short term goal again.

I don’t know about you, but short term goals have become rarer the older I get. On one level, little projects help the lazy side of me stay motivated and engaged, but the absence of the short term goal has a much more serious side effect - you can end up doing a terrible lot of thinking about about the future. No good can come of this. The bar exam gave me respite from introspection and my ongoing quest to figure out the meaning of my life. For a couple of months I had a clear purpose, one so demanding I couldn’t spare a thought for myself. It was a nice distraction, although one I admit I’m not keen to repeat.

5. When you’re done, you reconnect with the simple things.

After spending a couple of months in small rooms with big books and great worry, forgetting to eat and how to fall asleep, when you’re all done and you regain the freedoms in your life, it is intoxicating. You take pleasure from the simplest things, like going for a guilt-free walk on a weekend afternoon, without having to mentally revise your notes at the same time. Enjoying as many cocktails as you like. Sleeping in. Sleeping. It’s lovely and unexpected when an experience shows you how to appreciate the things you take for granted.

Let’s just say there are critical moments in a persons life, experiences that leave you irretrievably altered: that first taste of independence; the blissful intensity of first love and the ensuing heartbreak. Sitting the New York Bar is one such moment.

And if I fail, I guess I’ll just do it all over again in July. I’m confident of one thing: that I too am unlikely to need as many attempts as this Californian gentlemen.

Ms. Sullivan is unlikely to need as many attempts as Maxcy Dean Filer, who may hold the California bar endurance record, having passed in 1991 after 47 unsuccessful tries. The Compton, Calif., man, who says he’ll practice any kind of law that “comes through the door — except probate and bankruptcy,” says he always tried to psych himself up before taking the test by repeating, “I didn’t fail the bar, the bar failed me.” WSJ

→ 1 CommentCategories: Bar Exam · Law · New York Living

‘Tis the season of tipping

December 31, 2007 · No Comments

Tipping etiquette confounds all those new to this city. New Yorkers’ opinions differ on even the most common and least controversial tip - the appropriate addition to a restaurant bill - and it’s impossible to get a consistent answer on exactly who it is you’re supposed to tip. With tipping practices so extensive, you’re constantly asking whether you should be slipping an extra few to the UPS delivery guy, the cable guy or even your dry cleaner. Just when you thought you had figured a tipping rule out - like no tips on take-away items - you notice the place where you pick up your morning coffee has a large tip jar inviting you to “support local latte artists”. There are several websites purporting to provide standards on how much to tip and to whom, but the basis of their authority in this area is not clear. If you prefer the enhanced credibility that comes with a published work, there are also several books available for purchase which will help you master “The Art of Tipping”. I briefly considered ordering the particularly promising title, “Tipping for Success“, but couldn’t really justify the investment. It’s simpler just to randomly stuff a few extra bills into every eager hand - apparently this is the way you say thanks here, and I do have good manners after all.

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When we all began receiving “Happy Holidays!” cards from our building staff, each card identifying the various superintendents, doormen, handymen and porters by their full names (with some rather curiously including headshots of the staff), we were bemused to learn that they were not intended as a pleasant seasonal greeting. The purpose of these cards, were were told, was to provide a handy reference guide to help us identify those of the staff to whom we would be delivering envelopes stuffed with cold hard cash. This was how we were introduced to a new and much more significant category of “Holiday tipping”, a practice so well-established you can even buy tall, narrow Christmas cards specifically tailored to accommodate greenbacks. How significant is this new tipping? You must pay out to everyone that could make your life uncomfortable in the next year - from your super to your hairdresser to your personal trainer to your postman. How much, exactly? The New York Post was suggesting figures of anywhere between $50 to $500 for the superintendent; $25 to $200 for each doorman, and $20 to $50 for each porter. Many of us tipped with reluctant generosity, “because they might do something bad to you if you don’t tip… I am tipping out of fear rather any sense of gratitude“. This was the simple, eloquent recognition by a fellow Australian of the real spirit - fear of retribution - behind our holiday tipping. After all, these are the people charged with the safe delivery of our packages and effecting emergency repair on leaky radiators. We wouldn’t want them suddenly to become persistently unavailable, would we? The price of this security, for those unlucky few living in large luxury doorman buildings with over 20 eligible staff, got as high as 1,000 bucks.

And, when a few days later we all learned that it’s also customary to tip our secretaries, we didn’t make too much fuss. Okay, perhaps we engaged in a little cathartic whinging, but we quickly accepted it with the same grim resignation we did when they insisted we start using “z”s and dropping “u”s, and made us feel obligated to utilize ridiculous words like “utilize” and “obligated”. We were firmly discouraged by the locals from trying to offer a thoughtful gift to our secretaries instead of money (the sum of which should be somewhere between $50 and $500, depending on your seniority and how much you think you’ll miss a happy, helpful and highly efficient secretary over the coming year). Those who felt strange about giving their secretaries cash opted for the marginally less vulgar gift card. In the US, gift cards are available for purchase almost anywhere you hand over money, from post offices to take-away burger joints to chemists. It doesn’t seem to make any sense at first, but then you learn that for big business, it’s eeeeeasy money. Last year in the US, there were around 8 billion dollars worth of unused gift cards. True story. I chose to give the gift of cash - because it doesn’t have a sneaky expiration date, and nothing says I love you like money.

With warm greetings for this season of tipping, Happy Holidays!

 

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The amazing fishpen!

December 31, 2007 · No Comments

Ever wondered about the calibre of TV commercials that are featured during primetime in this highly sophisticated metropolis? Wonder no more, my friends, because this is the craze that’s sweeping the nation. It takes the prize for the most absurd consumer product I have seen advertised so far, and I can only imagine the success of this ad must be due in large part to the haunting realism portrayed by the stellar cast.

→ No CommentsCategories: Television · Video

Give thanks and rock

November 28, 2007 · 1 Comment

The leaves are finally falling on Bleecker Street after a very warm November, and the city is now fully immersed in its relentless series of winter festivals. Halloween just about collided into Thanksgiving long weekend, and even though we’ve only had a couple of days to finish up the leftover turkey, there is no doubt that it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas in New York City.

So, with two of my very favourite people, Silva & Darren, passing through town on the way to their new life on the island paradise of the Grand Caymans, I was under pressure to find that quintessential New York experience which combined the atmosphere of the city with all those clichéd elements of the season. With Broadway and the grandiosity of its musicals well and truly silenced by the second week of striking stagehands, there was only one option that fit the bill - Radio City Music Hall’s 75th Anniversary Christmas Spectacular, featuring none other than those iconic Radio City Rockettes…..

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The show was everything it was cracked up to be: a big salute to white, upper class New York and a cheesy celebration of the wonder of Christmas, replete with a perfectly patronising Santa Claus performing those hackneyed parlour tricks for which he’s famous -  miraculously knowing every kid’s name, making skeptical little boys fly magically through the air, etc. It’s clear the producers build the show each year by jamming generic Christmas filler around the six or seven dance numbers where the Rockettes truly do rock. The sets are awesome, and seeing those Rockettes perform their spectacular routines makes the event worth every penny of the admission price, so much so that you happily forgive the crappy in-between bits where Santa helps little Jimmy understand how he can be in more than one place at the one time by singing a painful ballad. The Rockettes might be the g-rated version of those Vegas Showgirls, but there were more than enough high-kicks to satisfy even the most jaded of us, and these girls have got to be in with a fighting chance for the title of the best super-long legs in the business. Finding myself quite taken with the moment, I joined the other tourists and recorded a few minutes - here’s a little of what I’m talking about. Apologies for the quality (it’s a youtube thing), and spare me your comments on copyright, I’m a criminal defence lawyer now. Watch it till the end or you’ll miss the fireworks. Happy pre-Christmas.

→ 1 CommentCategories: Entertainment · New York Living · Video

Accent chair to Gothic Red – a tale of frustration and relief

November 19, 2007 · 2 Comments

I wouldn’t say I sprung forth from the womb a natural shopper, but I have learned a thing or two over the years. Ordinarily, I’m pretty decisive - when faced with all the alternatives, I would have no problem figuring out which one works best for me (or you, for that matter). But of late I seem to be doing nothing but a whole bunch of hesitating. The problem, my friends, is a debilitating one - there is simply too much choice.

When I entered Bed, Bath & Beyond’s flagship store on Sixth Avenue, I was after a simple shower curtain. Two hours later, I found myself still rooted to the same spot, gazing upwards, a little awestruck, at the one hundred plus shower curtains hanging in the most elaborate display from the forty foot ceilings of this fluffy warehouse. These were no ordinary shower curtains. They looked majestic, like the fluttering sails of a dozen yachts, criss-crossing each other in all manner of divine, creative angles. My eyes skipped from one to the other with the most pathetic uncertainty. There was the fetching plastic one, embossed with a giant image of the Brooklyn Bridge; there was the luscious, golden, 1000-thread-count fabric one, which seemed to flirt with you as it shimmered in the air-conditioned breeze. Perhaps I wanted the bright red one? The checkered one? The one with delicate Japanese cherry blossom embroidery? Eventually I left, somewhat uncertainly, with a lightly glittery white one, and now every morning as I step into my shower I ask myself somberly whether I made the right choice. And it’s not just shower curtains, people. Every f&*king purchase brings with it agonizing indecision and spending paralysis. Yesterday, while picking up a box of tissues at my local chemist, I counted twenty-two different varieties of lip balm on point-of-sale display at the counter. Twenty-two.

The worst symptom of this recent re-acquaintance with my hesitant side is that I’ve still not managed to pick up all the big furniture items for my new pad. Every weekend, I wander into the same furniture shops, and with an odd kind of melancholy ask myself the same tired questions. Which of the sixty-eight styles of “accent chair” in Crate & Barrel’s showroom would suit me and my personality best? Is it the streamlined 60’s mod number, or perhaps the overstuffed, chenille-wrapped, grizzly bear of a armchair? Now that I think about it, maybe now is the time to finesse my personal style, do something a little unusual. I could embrace the nouvelle vogue of shabby chic and pick up one of those Louis XVI antique-style numbers, upholstered with that faux-faded, incredibly sophisticated, satin Paris stripe. Yes, I tell myself, this is the one that speaks most harmoniously with my indubitable inner elegance. Or is it? Sigh. One particular day I felt emboldened enough to make a decision - I strode up to the saleschick and, with much feigned determination, told her I wanted to order a “London Chair” please. She smiled and said “have you decided on a fabric and colour?” When I, rather deflated, asked her about the choices, she mumbled something about there being forty options, give or take, once you took into account the custom colours, and that she’d go fetch the swatches. By the time she returned, I was gone. Like the wind. I hit the footpath, stopping only to pick up some comfort food - a hot pretzel - from a guy on the corner of Houston and Broadway, and jumped in a cab. Enough!

These are the frustrating circumstances which led me, one chilly weeknight as I ducked in and out of the uber-hip galleries of Chelsea, to the most spontaneous and financially irresponsible purchasing decision of my short life as a New Yorker. Laurie Frick, an artist friend of a friend, was exhibiting her new work at Robert Steele Gallery. Laurie produces these wonderfully busy collage pieces, which look vaguely like street maps when viewed from afar, and when examined up close tell you a whole bunch of erratic stories that captured my interest in a persistent way. And having spent a whole two months curiously unable to buy the things I needed, once I saw something I really liked, well, the impulse to buy was irresistible. And buying that thing I really liked, well, it was the most liberating feeling in the world. And that is how I came to be liberated by Laurie Frick’s “Gothic Red”, which apparently has something to do with the imperfection of memory, the little fragments of things we remember and the little slivers of things we don’t. For me, I just like looking at it, I guess, and every night when I come home, I take a moment to sit on my lone piece of furniture (my chocolate leather sofa from Macy’s) and stare awhile at “Gothic Red”.

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→ 2 CommentsCategories: Art · New York Living · Shopping

We want the funk - Ad of the month brought to you by Mastercard

October 9, 2007 · 2 Comments

A little something to make you feel warm and fuzzy inside…

→ 2 CommentsCategories: Television · Video

New York is an amazing place, but trying to find an apartment in Manhattan sucks.

October 9, 2007 · 6 Comments

Daydreamers and fantasists like me can often find reality a little disappointing, but I’m pleased to report that a whole three weeks into this little gamble of mine, I’m still a little wide-eyed and wearing grin from ear to ear. Every now and then, like while strolling down a narrow street on the lower east side on a Sunday morning, I’ll spot something so random and wonderful it gives me cause to stop and think “hey, you’re living your dream”. And that makes me smile. 

Expecting to be greeted by the chilly freshness of early autumn, I arrived to a gorgeous stretch of sunny days and unseasonably warm temperatures upwards of 30 degrees. This provided plenty of opportunity to wander around the city in thongs and rolled up jeans, sipping frozen fruit frappes and sweating like a true New Yorker (courtesy of the kind of hard core humidity that would rival even the stickiest south-east Asian city).

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(Hudson and Bleecker Streets, West Village - the universal childhood activity of playing in the sprinklers on a hot day)

With merely two weeks to find an apartment in a city where vacancy rates are just 0.9%, I smoothly and swiftly snapped into action. By now a seasoned flat-hunter, I knew my weaknesses and was prepared to compromise: no more of your exceptional fussiness, I told myself,  you’re in the big city nowI was secretly concerned that the process would eventually break me, but the price tags attached to your average tiny and dilapidated Manhattan apartment are so farcical that moments which would ordinarily frustrate become too entertaining to produce any real bitterness.

Sure, every man and his poodle knows that rents in this city are astronomical, but it’s the inconsistency that ends up messing with your head. In the ordinary world, if you pay more generally you get more - not so here in this twisted little marketplace where anomalies are rife. The first few days of the hunt brought with them some difficult lessons:

  1. A “loft” is not an amazing converted warehouse space with 15 foot ceilings and immense arched windows - it’s just a studio apartment. A teensy weensy one, the size of the bedroom in your last Sydney pad.
  2. A “walk-up” does not mean that the apartment is in an old-school brownstone building, the kind with a charming little stoop leading up from the footpath like the steps on Sesame Street. A “walk-up” means you have to climb four or five flights of the narrowest, ricketiest staircase to get to your top floor “loft”, cause you’re in a “pre-war” building without an elevator.
  3. Windows, apparently, are rare, and if you manage to score a couple best not be too disappointed with the sweeping vista directly into your neighbour’s kitchen, the back of the next building or a car park.
  4. A balcony, known in New York as a fire escape, is considered a luxury. If you have access to one from your apartment (say, by crawling out your kitchen window), you’ll become the envy of your friends and neighbours.

After five solid days looking at apartments downtown, averaging about ten or so each day, I decided to do what many of us have learned to over the years - throw some more money at the problem. In New York this is known as using a “broker”, a particularly sleazy form of real estate agent who takes you round the city and shows you a bunch of apartments, and in exchange for the introduction charges you an up-front, non-refundable fee of 15% of the annual rent. Apparently, this is the kind of obscene and widespread scam that a free market capitalist economy produces. It is such a colossal rort. Access to at least half the rentals in the city at any given time can only be gained via a broker, and wouldn’t you know it, those brokered apartments just happen to be the newer, cleaner, better ones in the nicer buildings in the cooler neighbourhoods. Eventually you stop grumbling and accept this as your punishment for being one of those hapless individuals who is determined to live in Manhattan.

To add insult to serious financial injury, this “broker” person that you’re preparing to hand over thousands of dollars to - well, he’s among the filthiest, dodgiest characters you’ll come across. He turns up late to appointments, strangely dishevelled and often without the right key, in which case he will gain access by buzzing random apartments in the building and pretending to be the “Fed Ex guy”. He will exclaim that each new apartment is a “steal” at “just $4,500 a month”, especially considering the “up and coming neighbourhood”. In some cases, your broker will frequently excuse himself to go to the bathroom, emerging frantically energized and sniffing wildly. He will rapid-fire some tired crap about the distinguished bohemian history of the area (artists, rock stars, authors were all inspired to their genius on this very block) and aggressively insist that you should put in an application that very moment, because he “can assure you this place will be rented by the end of the day!”.

Eventually I found a pleasant middle-aged lady broker who agreed to lower her fee cause I was a “nice girl”. She found me just the right apartment on the fifth floor of an elevator building, with not one but six big windows, all of which miraculously face the street. My new ‘hood is the “West Village”, a prettier than average part of lower Manhattan with tree-lined streets, an abundance of quirky bars and hip eateries, the occasional delightful patisserie on the corner and that romantic second hand bookshop down the street you like to imagine is run by an eccentric eastern European widower. Home to the infamous Magnolia Bakery, the highest concentration of celebrities in Manhattan, and a healthy proportion of all the Australian lawyers in the city, I present you all with my new zip code - New York, NY 10014.

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  (My new bedroom. Note the prime corner position and leafy outlook from three windows. Congratulate me)

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 (My new living area, which can accommodate a couch and a dining table. Understand, people, this is no small feat) 

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(My new kitchen, fully decked out with brand new appliances - including a mini dishwasher. Please note balcony access is through the window to the left )

On the day I signed my lease, in exchange for the keys I was required to hand over cheques to the total of US$18,500. These covered rent for the first month ($3,400),  security in the sum of three months rent - the sorry price you pay for having no credit rating in the US ($10,200), and the 12% broker fee ($4,896). Ouch.

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